Current Recommendations for Aura Photography of Buried Metals

A Canon EOS 350D (Rebel XT) DSLR camera or EOS 400D (Rebel XTI). Used cameras can be obtained quite cheaply.

A Canon Zoom 18-55mm EF-S ‘kit’ lens (normally supplied with camera). Set the focal length 24mm or above as low settings tend to cause a reflection of the lens to appear in the photographs.

A Cokin square filter holder, P series with adapter ring to fit lens (58mm diameter).

A Cokin P007 720nm Infrared filter. Cokin now only manufacture a round IR filter, which will only work in its own slot next to the lens on strong targets. To use this filter with the kit lens on small targets it is necessary to carefully cut or file two small flats on opposite sides of the filter ring so it will slide into the square slots in the holder.

Mount the holder onto the lens and fit the filter in the centre slot of the three square filter slots in the holder (the slot nearest the lens is for a round filter). Set the camera on automatic, no flash (that’s the selector turned fully clockwise). Let the camera autofocus through the filter. All other camera settings should be on automatic/default.

For best results the air temperature needs to be above 50 degrees F / 10 degrees C. Shoot in daylight at right angles to or away from the Sun although the Sun does not need to be shining.

Good results can be obtained with the camera hand-held but marginally better results might be achieved on small targets by mounting the camera on a tripod/stand.

The viewfinder must be kept covered either by the photographer’s eye (hand held) or a black cover if tripod mounted.

Strong auras can be seen on the camera’s backscreen but for weaker auras post process the images with Canon’s Arcsoft Photostudio (5.5) using the enhance facility.

Please note: Canon have upgraded their sensor a number of times and Canon cameras other than the two above may not work in the same way or at all for aura photography.

Also the internal IR blocking filter must not be removed.

The macro lens is optional for small targets or long distance but Sigma 105mm is the recommended macro – most others have not been tested.

There are Free videos here:

Finding Buried Treasure with Digital Cameras:

Filter and camera setup for photographing treasure auras:

Part 1 Photographing Infrared Pictures over buried Silver coins:

Part 2 Photographing Infrared Pictures over Silver coins:

The Successful Treasure Hunter’s Secret Manual is available in print (softcover) on Amazon here: https://amzn.to/3SCtchK

Or Kindle or Hardcover here: https://amzn.to/4fxtSig

Or most digital formats here (epub mobi pdf rtf lrf pdb txt): 

https://www.smashwords.com/books/view/126811

Or most popular E-readers here: https://books2read.com/u/baELrv

More Treasures Found

 Coins worth up to $290,000 found under kitchen floorboards in England

Miners find 500-year-old shipwreck filled with gold coins in Namibian desert

Buried treasure from 17th-century Spanish shipwreck uncovered in the Bahamas

Treasure Reports

 RESEARCHERS FIND PREHISTORIC GRAVE CONTAINING 169 GOLD RINGS

https://www.heritagedaily.com/2022/08/researchers-find-prehistoric-grave-containing-169-gold-rings/144425

One of the most exciting archaeological finds in the history of Irish art was unearthed on Tipperary's Derrynaflan Island by a man and his son using metal detectors.

https://www.bbc.com/travel/article/20220731-irelands-priceless-treasure-hidden-by-monks

Billionaire Explorer Reveals Lost Treasures of the Wonder Ship

https://www.ancient-origins.net/news-history-archaeology/wonder-ship-0017088

Dowsing for detectorists - PART 1: THE L-ROD

The Penrith Hoard in the British Museum Copyright 2010 Ealdgyth and reused under a Creative Commons Attribution-Share Alike 3.0 Unported license

“There are more things in heaven and earth, Horatio, Than are dreamt of in your philosophy.” Hamlet 1:5 

I would imagine that all detectorists have an interest in improving the quality and quantity of their finds. Yet very few make use of a free technology that can bring spectacular results when employed alongside a metal detector. Dowsing probably hasn't caught on with detectorists because of common beliefs that either it doesn't work or it is impractical. My own experiences, however, have convinced me that dowsing does work and that it can be very easily put to practical use. 

Many years ago, having long had a casual interest in the so-called paranormal, I decided to give dowsing a try and bought a pair of L-rods. The instructions claimed that it was necessary to rest one end of each rod in the palm of each hand while supporting the rod loosely between the thumb and forefinger. I found this terribly uncomfortable; couldn't get them to work and didn't have a clue what to do with them if I did get them to work. I gave up on the idea of being able to dowse myself, and discarded the rods. There were two important points that I later learned from this experience: 

1. I had unwittingly fallen foul of one of the basic rules of dowsing - you need to be relaxed and comfortable with what you are doing. 

2. The fact that nobody really knows how dowsing works, tends to attract those with fanciful ideas on how you should or shouldn't dowse; there are no strict rules, you just dowse as you want. 

Sometime later, I asked accomplished dowser Jimmy Longton to dowse a map for me. (See post: To the Manor Drawn, February 22 2015). In addition to dowsing the map, Jimmy tried very hard to encourage me to learn his craft. I was still very sceptical, even though the British Society of Dowsers claim that: "Most of us can develop the art by practice and perseverance". When Jimmy told me of his find of a hoard of Viking silver brooches, I could see the improvements that dowsing might bring to my own finds. There appeared to be a more convincing alternative, however, the Long Range Locator. I bought an Electroscope and learned to use it with good results. 

About a year later, following a discussion on dowsing, my mother-in-law announced that she would like a pair of dowsing rods for her birthday. I thought she deserved a little more than two remodelled coat hangers so I splashed out on a pair of commercial rods. On her birthday she handed me the rods and asked me to show her how to use them. "They don't work for me" I explained, "But this is what you are supposed to do ..." With that, I threw a pound coin on the lawn in front of me and proceeded to walk towards it, rods in dowsing mode. To my surprise the rods crossed as I walked over the coin. Intrigued by my new-found ability, I experimented with L-rods and discovered that they responded to buried metal in much the same way as the Electroscope. I can only conclude that by using the Electroscope I had actually taught myself to dowse. 

There is no need to spend several hundreds of pounds just to learn to dowse. Jimmy Longton kindly allowed me to reproduce his rod design and dowsing work-out, so you can learn for nothing! If you already have a pair of L-rods, you can use them, if you like, or you can make excellent rods as follows: 

You will need 22 in. (56 cm) of round metal bar (brass is considered best) of diameter 1/16 in. (1.5 mm) to 3/16 in. (5mm) to make each rod. Unless you have easy access to round bar, I suggest you use two wire coat hangers (N.B. Measurements and angles do not need to be too precise to make a working rod): 

1. Invert the first hanger and measure 14 in. (36 cm.) from one side, along the horizontal bar then mark and cut through with a pair of pliers or a junior hacksaw, measure 22 in. (56 cm.) back from the first cut and make a second cut. Discard the hooked portion. (Fig. 1). 

2. Smooth the cut ends with a file or emery cloth. 

3. Using a pair of pliers or a vice, first straighten and then bend the shorter arm back to an angle of 135 degrees (Fig. 2). 

4. Measure 7 in. (18 cm.) along the shorter arm, from its end and bend this portion back until horizontal (Fig. 3), then turn the last 5.5 in. (14 cm.) up at right angles. Finally, turn the last 0.5 in. (1 cm.) of the upright inwards, at right angles (fig 4.). 

5. Lay the rod on a level surface and adjust it until it lies reasonably flat. 

6. Make a second rod from the other coat hanger. 

Health warning: The rods are perfectly harmless when used as described. If you wish to use them to play Conan the Barbarian, Robin Hood, Ivanhoe or act out any other fantasy, don't blame me if you puncture your eyeball or any other part of your body. I would suggest that children using the rods should be supervised by a responsible adult. The rods can be made extra safe by folding their tips back on themselves, wrapping their tips with insulating tape or applying a blob of resin such as Araldite. 

Take the short arm of a rod in each hand so that the long arm is on the opposite side to your thumbs. Clench your fists around them loosely and turn your wrists so that your thumbs are uppermost. Tuck your elbows into your body and keep your upper arms in line with your body. Hold your forearms straight out in front of you, the width of your body apart and at whatever angle necessary to keep the rods reasonably parallel to the ground. The rods should now be pointing forward like extensions of your forearms. You may need to adjust your grip so that the rods are just free to move but not sloppy. When you are happy with holding the rods we can move on to the exercises: 

1. Hold the rods in the normal dowsing position as just described. Ask the rods to turn left. (You have to treat them like pets; talk to them nicely at first but if they don't do as they are told, shout at them - it works, honest!) After they have moved, restart the rods pointing forward. The easy way to get the rods to point forward is to drop your forearms so that the rods point to the ground then raise your forearms back to the horizontal. Ask the rods to turn right. Restart. Ask the rods to cross. The rods will cross on your chest. Practice until the rods move easily. 

2. Place a coin on the floor then take a few paces back from it. Hold your rods in the normal dowsing position and walk slowly toward the coin saying, (out loud, preferably): "I am looking for a coin". The rods will either cross as you pass immediately over the coin or within a few paces past the coin. Keep practising until the rods cross at the coin. 

3. Place a copper coin, a silver coin and a brass coin some distance apart on the ground. Hold your rods in the normal dowsing position and walk slowly toward the coin saying: "I am looking for a copper coin". The rods will cross as you pass over the copper coin but not the other two. Repeat the exercise with the silver coin and then the brass. Keep practising until you can differentiate between various metals. 

4. Stand sideways to a distant building or other large object that you know the location of and ask the rods to show you where it is. Give the full name of the place, i.e. "Show me St. James' Church". Clear you mind of everything else and concentrate. Once you get this to work, try standing with your back to the "target" (as dowsers tend to call objects they are trying to find) and see what happens. 

5. When you have succeeded with exercise 4, take your rods to the gate of a field, which is available to you for searching. Hold the rods as normal and ask: "are there any coins buried in this field?" The rods will cross if there are. Ask the rods to point to the nearest coin, then walk slowly in the direction indicated by the rods, turning, as necessary, to keep the rods pointing straight out in front of you. On reaching the coin the rods will cross. If you want to search for other objects as well as coins, ask the rods to find treasure. 

Keep practising. Once you can obtain a response from the rods in all these exercises, you are basically ready to do anything. Even if you can't do it all at first, you should find that the rods will produce some useful results in the field and you will improve with time. 

You may have noticed that in exercise 5 you reached your first buried coin but how do you recover it, bearing in mind that you have no hands free to carry anything? Hopefully you will have brought someone else along who can, at least, carry your metal detector and extraction tool, if not do the detecting and digging for you. If you are the independent sort, you don't need to have a partner, it's very easy to both dowse and recover targets by yourself. I'll show you how next time.

First Published in The Searcher/ November 1997

Revising the definition of treasure in the Treasure Act 1996 and revising the related codes of practice

Hoard of Iron Age gold Staters

The UK Government Department for Digital, Culture, Media and Sport, which is ultimately responsible for the Treasure Act and Code of Practice, has produced a consultation document outlining proposed changes.  While much of the proposals are little more than housekeeping there are some material changes that are of some concern.

At present, treasure is defined, under the Act, as any object other than a coin, at least 300 years old when found, which has a metallic content, of which at least 10% by weight is gold or silver. And all coins that contain at least 10% by weight of gold or silver that come from the same find consisting of at least two coins, at least 300 years old. And all coins that contain less than 10% by weight gold or silver that come from the same find consisting of at least ten coins at least 300 years old. And any associated objects (e.g. a pot or other container), except unworked natural objects, found in the same place as treasure objects. And any objects or coin hoards less than 300 years old, made substantially of gold and silver that have been deliberately hidden with the intention of recovery and for which the owner is unknown. From 1 January 2003 the definition of treasure was extended on prehistoric (i.e. up to the end of the Iron Age) finds to include all multiple artifacts, made of any metal, found together and single artifacts deliberately containing any quantity of precious metal.

It is now proposed to add:

·         Any found object over 200 years old with a value over £10,000

·         All single gold coins dated between 43 and 1344

·         Two or more base metal objects of Roman date believed to have been intentionally buried together

There is also a proposal to impose a legal duty on the acquirer of a possible treasure find to report it and to impose a presumption that acquired treasure finds were found after the Treasure Act. This is fraught with difficulties. Under the Treasure Act rewards are split equally between finder and landowner (unless there is a different agreement in place) so will private acquirers report potential treasure if they stand to lose half its value if it is declared treasure? Potential treasure items were being found for 25 years before the Treasure Act, so assuming half of today’s find rate, that amounts to some 12,000 exempt treasures somewhere, many probably in inherited collections. The presumption of found since the Treasure Act seems contrary to English Law – innocent until proven guilty. Does the acquirer take the seller’s word for when the item was found? It is often impossible to PROVE when and where an item was found. Surely it is up to the State to prove it was found after the Treasure Act. The findspot is held up to be vitally important but in these cases, it is likely to be erroneous or completely lacking, so what is the point?

Diamond Orbs

In TheSuccessful Treasure Hunter’s Secret Manual, I looked at thermal and electrical conductivity as a possible explanation as to why some metals produce stronger auras than others. What I discovered through experimentation is that different metals produce different auras and fortunately precious metals produce the strongest auras. In other words a smaller amount of gold or silver will produce an aura than is the case with base metals. This stuff is so cutting edge that I’m afraid I don’t know all the answers. I do recall that when I was doing a lot of beach treasure hunting in the summer evenings, when the crowds had left, that coins coming out of the sand were always quite hot to the touch. The mechanism is presumably emission of infrared radiation selectively absorbed by metals from the sun although it could just as likely be metallic interference with the earth’s magnetic field. It doesn’t matter too much, as it is results in finds that we’re after, not a degree in physics. A useful way of comparing metals seems to be thermal and electrical conductivity, I must stress these may not be the only factors or even the correct factors that determine aura strength but they do tie in quite nicely with my observations.

Silver has a thermal conductivity of 420 Watts per metre-Kelvin and an electrical conductivity of 62,000,000 Siemens per metre. Pure copper has a thermal conductivity of 370 W/mk and an electrical conductivity of 59,500,000 S/m. Gold has a thermal conductivity of 315 W/mk and an electrical conductivity of 45,000,000 S/m. Pure copper has conductivities in between gold and silver, however copper is normally found alloyed with zinc or tin forming brass or bronze respectively, which have much lower conductivities, typically a thermal conductivity of 125 W/mk and an electrical conductivity of 15,000,000 S/m. Soil, sand and water have thermal and electrical conductivities around 1 W/mk / S/m or less. Diamond, interestingly has the highest thermal conductivity of any known substance at 1000 W/mk but such an extremely low electrical conductivity it can be considered to be an insulator. Unfortunately I couldn’t afford a large heap of diamonds to test whether they produced auras but I said it might be something worth looking out for. I was sent the photo from a reliable source who claims it is a diamond aura. I must say it is a very unusual aura photo and I haven’t seen anything quite like it before. I would like to see a photo of the diamonds though, which might be available in due course.

Piggyback Cameras

Paul, from Australia, told me (and sent photos) of how he had mounted an Olympus D-360L camera onto the Canon 350d and can now take accurately pointed photos using the Olympus camera's view finder. This idea is working very well, also the Olympus is very useful being able to take a normal photo of the target area at the same time as the photo being taken by the Canon. You can actually see the area clearly that you were looking at which is rarely the case with the Cannon infrared image. Ideally you would hope to get the small orb auras, without a filter, on the Olympus to confirm the auras on the Canon although there is a small snag here in that the Canon seems to work best in the early afternoon while the Olympus seems to prefer low light conditions at dawn or dusk, like the Polaroid. Nevertheless it is a good idea worth pursuing and having a normal image in tandem with the IR image is useful, although that could be achieved with any compact, with a viewfinder, similarly mounted. Bear in mind that the lens on the Olympus is offset so the Olympus needs to be skewed slightly to capture the same view as the Canon. Stand mounting the set-up would be preferable.

Phot-R 1/4"-20 Aluminium Dual Nuts Tripod Mount Screw to Flash Digital Camera Hot Shoe Adapter

This is the adapter I used in the set up, they come with one or two nuts; although I prefer the two nut version as it holds everything more securely. The Canon’s pop-up flash is deactivated by fitting the mount, in case anyone was wondering.

Treasure Hunting for Profit: With and Without a Metal Detector

BOOK DESCRIPTION
If your dreams of finding treasure result in next to nothing, then this book is for you. David Villanueva draws on his 40 plus years experience to show you how and where to find, and profit from, many types of lost or hidden valuables in Britain, all year round. Treasure hunting is one of the few hobbies that can actually cost you nothing to take part but potentially bring you a fortune. Terry Herbert, the finder of the Staffordshire Saxon hoard received over 1.5 million pounds for basically a few hours enjoyable work with an old metal detector he bought for pocket change. But money is not the only reward; this fascinating pursuit breathes life into history and archaeology and offers healthy exercise to boot.
This book shows you how and where in Britain you can profitably:

• Use a metal detector
• Beachcomb for lost valuables
• Find Gold, Minerals, Gemstones & Meteorites
• Search for Fossils
• Hunt for treasure in innumerable places

If you dream of finding buried treasure, improving your finds rate or exploring new avenues for fun and profit… You can get the E-book and printed book from the SHOP at www.truetreasurebooks.net (Also available on Amazon, ebay, Smashwords and other online and offline retailers).
Please note: Most of the locations and contacts given in the book are based in the UK so if you live outside of the UK and are not planning a treasure hunting trip to Britain, then you will need to do some local research to get the best out of the book. Nevertheless I hope you all enjoy it and I always appreciate feedback– good bad or indifferent – it helps me be a better writer.

In Search of King John’s Treasure (Part 2)

The only field that produced a good aura was the same field that had given the curious orbs with the camera on the AV setting. While not the recommended setting, it does indicate that other camera settings work – perhaps as good or better. We had photographed the field from different points on adjacent sides of the field and obtained auras in the same place from both points and with both lenses, so there is definitely a substantial quantity of metal buried here, which may be silver from the colours obtained in the photographs. I should perhaps mention that this is not the field that Garry Brooker indicated but it is close by.

We now needed to contact the landowner to discuss the possibility of undertaking a survey to try and establish what is buried there and at what depth. It has now become quite easy to use the Land Registry online: https://www.gov.uk/government/organisations/land-registry to establish ownership and in this case it only took a few minutes. Writing a letter to the landowner took somewhat longer and as yet we have received no reply. Still no news is good news, they say! Meanwhile Aquila is seeking Yamashita’s gold in the Philippines so I am awaiting his return before chasing this project up…

Olympus Digital Cameras

We have found three early Olympus digital cameras that are capable of photographing auras. The earliest is the D-360L, which will produce tiny orb auras and does not even need a filter. My friend Kybob has made a video of this camera in action: https://youtu.be/USOH2GnspHg

Note that there is a vehicle in the background in some of the shots, which will produce auras in its own right, being a substantial chunk of metal. This is the second video in a two part series. Part 1 covers the Canon camera: https://youtu.be/-4u9F3qOrmcThe other two cameras: D-490 Zoom and C-460 Zoom del Sol both need a filter. I am using 850nm, 90% pass filter material successfully in the Cokin Compact Camera holder: Amazon link: https://www.amazon.co.uk/Cokin-Digi-Holder-Cat-BAD700/dp/B0000AQ4N1/ref=as_sl_pc_as_ss_li_til?tag=trutreboo-21&linkCode=w00&linkId=4fb7b0a2b30130c6c5dd74146690004b&creativeASIN=B0000AQ4N1

I have just been informed that Cokin also make a magnetic filter for compact cameras: Amazon link: https://www.amazon.co.uk/Cokin-Magnetic-A-Holder-BA400MM/dp/B000T8Z3Y6/ref=as_sl_pc_as_ss_li_til?tag=trutreboo-21&linkCode=w00&linkId=ddc2a72f2e3b2827ca347a92d4405d6d&creativeASIN=B000T8Z3Y6

However, when I used a round filter on the D-490, attached to the front of the lens with poster putty, I found I needed a 950nm filter.The orb auras become larger as the megapixels increase, the C-460 ZdS at 4.0MP produces the largest orbs of the three.

I haven’t tested all the early Olympus cameras and many can be bought so cheaply now, they may be worth buying just to test. Ideally look for one of the above models, which we know work. If you want to try another model, get one which has a viewfinder or viewing port as it is impossible to use the backscreen with an IR filter in front of the lens. I can tell you that I have tried the C-460 and D-545, which did not produce auras on my test site.

HOW TO FIND BRITAIN’S BURIED TREASURE HOARDS

Every detectorist dreams of finding a hoard and this new book will increase your chances of doing so.

The rich history of the British Isles has led to the burial of thousands of hoards for many different reasons – some as offerings, some as savings or in an emergency, intended to be recovered later. Although of course nobody knows exactly where hoards are buried, understanding why hoards came to be in the ground will help you to search in the right places.

Covering the Bronze Age to modern times, this fascinating book, by David Villanueva,

also gives lots of advice on how to research possible hoard sites, from researching local maps and records to clues to look out for on Google Earth. Contents include:

• Tools & Resources
• The Bronze Age
• The Iron Age
• Roman Britain
• Saxons & Vikings
• Medieval Britain
• Religious Houses
• Battle Sites
• Modern Times
• Treasure Law

152 pages, A4, beautifully illustrated in colour. A must have book for all detectorists!

Available from Amazon:

https://www.amazon.co.uk/Find-Britains-Buried-Treasure-Hoards/dp/1897738625/ref=as_sl_pc_as_ss_li_til?tag=trutreboo-21&linkCode=w00&linkId=961d0dcc489de094b4b206f9590071bd&creativeASIN=1897738625

In Search of King John’s Treasure

A few months ago, out of the blue, an Australian, Garry Brooker, inventor of Rangertell, long range metal locators, gave me GPS co-ordinates, which he claimed to be the possible location of King John’s treasure. He didn’t tell me how he obtained this precise location, just that he and some American friends have become very accurate at locating various hidden metals using Google Earth.

I had only just thanked Garry for the information, when my friend, Aquila Chrysaetos, an accomplished dowser and author, contacted me to discuss King John’s treasure to include as a chapter in his second book, Dowsed Treasure Locations Around The World.

We thought it would be worthwhile to go and check the site out, so we pooled our dowsing and research resources and headed off for sunny Lincolnshire. Aquila had dowsed a number of targets in the area, including several quite close to Garry’s co-ordinates. We had been fortunate to get accommodation within walking distance of the fields, so after a hearty breakfast we set out photographing fields. The fields were under crop, so we could only photograph from the public roads and tracks running alongside.

I use both the Canon 18-55mm lens and the Sigma 105mm lens so I get two different takes on any target and I need to get a good aura with both to confirm a good target. So it was a matter of taking  enough shots with one lens to cover the field and then changing lenses and repeating the shots, plus one shot without the filter to identify the field later.

When photographing the second field I noticed this unusual orb formation on the camera backscreen.

It was only when photographing the third field that Aquila commented on how slow the camera shutter was operating that I looked at the setting and realized that I had the selector on AV, which is the setting I use when photographing finds, to get the necessary depth of field. So, moving the selector to the correct Auto-No Flash setting, we had to retrace our steps and take the shots of the three fields again. As it happens, we are both a bit overweight and undoubtedly benefited from the additional exercise!

Rule 1; always check the camera settings before taking photos!

To be continued…

The Colour of the Money

Buried metals interact with the earth’s magnetic field to emit electro-magnetic radiation. Radiation seems to be emitted across a spectrum of wavelengths from Near Infrared, through visible light to Ultraviolet. Different metals may have different dominant colours of radiation, as processed by the camera. This seems unrelated to the natural colour of the metal or alloy, since similarly coloured metals such as gold and brass do not necessarily produce the same colour radiation or aura. Colours can also change according to the size of the target. A single gold coin can produce a red aura and a bucketful will, presumably, also produce a red aura; a handful of iron junk, on the other hand, will produce a yellow aura but a lump the size of a car engine will produce a red aura. The colours do not work perfectly, unfortunately, but you can generally say that if the aura is not red then it will not be gold and you probably will not miss gold buried in an iron box. These colours are typical of the Canon camera using a long (Sigma) lens, which does not normally produce orbs.

The shorter Canon kit lens almost invariably produces an aura in the form of coloured orbs with a background colour. I believe the orbs form because of the geometry of the lens and is a function of radiation bouncing between the internal IR blocking filter or hot mirror and the rear of the external IR filter. Gold tends to produce multiple blue orbs on a red background and again, the size of the target may affect the numbers of orbs and colours. 

Book Review – Dowsed Treasure Locations Around the World

I must confess to knowing Aquila personally; however I do think that the concept here is brilliant. The author has used his expert research and dowsing skills, honed in searching for Yamashita’s gold, to investigate and pin-point the location of many of the lost treasures around the World. Some of the fabulous treasures featured include Nazi war loot and King John’s crown jewels in Europe; the burial place of Mongol leader Genghis Khan with his vast riches; Oak Island Money Pit in Canada and the lost Dutchman Gold Mine in Arizona, USA. Each account makes fascinating reading in its own right. And with over 30 treasure locations, in almost 20 countries, identified and documented with GPS co-ordinates, it will give a head start in recovering a king’s ransom in gold, jewels and artifacts! A must read book for every treasure hunter!

CONTENTS INCLUDE:

 Your Plan of Action for A Successful Treasure Recovery, Finding Buried Treasure,           

European Treasures:

Lake Toplitz; Lake Lünersee; Alt Aussee, Austria                                                                                       

Waltham Abbey; King John; Capt. Avery and Merchant Royal Wreck, Cornwall, England

Loch Arkaig; Largo Law, Scotland                                                                                   

The Royal Charter Wreck, Anglesey, Wales

Rennes-le-Château, France

Deutschneudorf, Germany

HMS Frigate Lutine, Holland

Monte Sorrate, Italy

Adolf Hilter’s Wolf’s Liar, Poland

Zbiroh Castle, Czech Republic

North American Treasures:
Superstitions Mountains Lost Dutchman Gold Mine, Arizona; Spanish Fleet in the Great Hurricane of 1553 and The Alamo Mission, San Antonio, Texas; Atocha & Margarita Wreck Sites, Key West, Florida; Poverty Island, Lake Michigan, USA                                                

Oak Island, Nova Scotia, Canada

Asian Treasures:

Yamashita; The Awa Maru, The Philippines

Flor Do Mar Ship, Malacca Straights, Malaysia                                                          

 “The Dolphin Wreck”, Sri Lanka

Genghis Khan, Mongolia  

Egyptian Treasures:                           

Red Sea Ship Wrecks; the Ancient City of Tanis

Other Treasures:

Cocos Island

Spanish Fleet Wrecks, Island Of Dominica


The book is available on Amazon http://amzn.to/2ramTT3  links to Amazon.co.uk, price £14.99. Also available on Amazon.com price $19.99                                   

DOWSING for TREASURE: THE NEW SUCCESSFUL TREASURE HUNTER'S ESSENTIAL DOWSING MANUAL

DOWSING for TREASURE: THE NEW SUCCESSFUL TREASURE HUNTER'S ESSENTIAL DOWSING MANUAL reveals secrets known only to a few amazingly successful treasure hunters.

If you want to find all the treasure you can handle — gold, silver, coins, jewels or anything else you call treasure — real fast. And if you want to find all this treasure without spending a fortune on expensive equipment or books and courses, using up all your free time studying and trying to put complicated rituals into practice in the field, then this essential manual was written for you! Expert metal detectorist, treasure hunter and internationally acclaimed author, David Villanueva, draws on his many years of experience at successfully dowsing for treasure to reveal ALL in this fact-packed manual. This completely revised and updated edition of the original SUCCESSFUL TREASURE HUNTER'S ESSENTIAL DOWSING MANUAL incorporating FAITHFUL ATTRACTION, is a revolutionary new guide to finding treasure, which shows how anyone — beginner or seasoned professional — can easily use the skills they probably never realized they had, to locate treasure — wherever it lies hidden. And, just as importantly, how to pinpoint and recover that treasure fast. Please note: This book is based on the two previous E-books mentioned above, which have been combined, revised and updated with some material subtracted and some new material added. If you have either of the previous E-books then this book will be an excellent companion volume; if you have both previous E-books, then you have the main issues covered.

Contents include:

1 Introduction 2 A Brief History Of Dowsing 3 How Does Dowsing Work? 4 Why Not Just Use A Metal Detector? 5 Finding And Using A Dowser 6 The Pendulum 7 Map Dowsing 8 The L-Rod 9 To Bait Or Not To Bait 10 Building A Better Gold Trap 11 To Look For Or To Unlook For 12 Buying A Better Gold Trap 13 All That Glitters 14 Metal Detectors And Search Heads 15 Photographing Treasure Auras 16 Research 17 Putting It All Together 18 Treasure Hunting Basics 19 Search Agreements 20 Bibliography

 

Treasure of Charles I

Another major project of Jimmy Longton's was locating Charles I treasure in the Firth of Forth,Scotland. Almost everyone knows that Charles I, the only British Monarch to be executed by his subjects, lost his head but very few know that he also lost a vast treasure, not once, but twice! The second treasure was melted down by Cromwell and largely consisted of an expensive replacement for the first, lost when a ferry, The Blessing of Burntisland, sank in Scotland’s Firth of Forth in 1633. Jimmy located a definite wreck believed to be the ferry and some seventeenth century artefacts have been recovered from the site but diving conditions are extremely difficult and there have been no reports of treasure as yet.

King John's Treasure

Continuing Jimmy Longton's search for treasure... In 1216 King John's court - contained in several large wagons laden with royal regalia - was crossing the River Wellstream, now part of the Wash, East Anglia. They got caught by the tide and went down in the quicksand. Legend says the remains are still there - somewhere, beyond the range of metal detectors and ground penetrating radar. Another method is needed. Here two enterprising entrepreneurs, seeking to restore ancient English heritage, ask Jimmy to find the spot. Enjoy the three videos:

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https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wgmew8Pg1ag

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_iIrk9JqOrY

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=99lJRXDqd2c

Jimmy Longton

It is my sad duty to report that my good friend, Britain’s foremost treasure dowser, James (Jimmy) Longton, passed away suddenly on 02 May 2015 at the age of 84 years. He was buried in the churchyard of his home village of Euxton, (pronounced Exton) Lancashire, UK, on 15 May 2015 following a service at Euxton Parish Church attended by around 200 family and friends, myself included. Rest in Peace, Jimmy.

I could relate many tales of Jimmy’s exploits but I’ll just stick to his main achievements in treasure dowsing for now. Jimmy’s major claim to fame is his part in the finding of the Viking (c. 930 AD) silver brooch hoard near Penrith, Cumbria, in 1989. The two largest (i.e. longest) thistle brooches in the picture were found in 1785 and 1830 (largest) in a field called silver field. Jimmy and his friend Gerald Carter located and investigated the field in 1989 and recovered five more brooches, which were subsequently declared Treasure Trove. The award was more than £40,000 GB Pounds ($60,000 US Dollars)...

The Penrith Hoard in the British Museum Copyright 2010 Ealdgyth and reused under a Creative Commons Attribution-Share Alike 3.0 Unported license 

Orbs of Light

I get asked many questions about circles (spheres) of light or orbs some of which I can answer and some I can’t. While orbs have been seen on traditional emulsion film photographs they are mainly a phenomenon of digital photography. A digital camera has an internal ‘hot mirror’ or blocking filter to stop infrared radiation reaching the sensor and blurring the conventional photograph, as infrared focuses differently to visible light. I believe that on some (weaker) lenses the infrared is reflected back off the hot mirror onto the back of the lens and is photographed as an orb. Depending on the intensity of the infrared radiation, the reflection can bounce back and forth a number of times forming several orbs. The photo above was taken of a large target with a Canon EOS350D with standard lens and 720nm filter.

 In comparison the same target was photographed above with the Sigma 105mm macro lens, which tends not to produce orbs, possibly because of the greater length of the lens.

 Both photographs were taken during the investigation of a suspected treasure site. Unfortunately the landowners will only allow excavation by archaeologists. To go ahead in this manner would result in the finds effectively being confiscated and no reward payable.

There are other reasons for the formation of orbs other than buried metal and several books have been written about orbs claiming them to be manifestations from the spirit world. Two I have are The Orb Project and Orbs Their Mission and Messages of Hope, both co-authored by Klaus Heinemann, who is a doctor of physics. And here is a link to a website: http://paranormalresearchforum.net/2011/04/26/orbs/ There are many photos of orbs in the books, a few of which I can explain without reference to the spirit world. Apart from buried metal, there are a number of common generators of infrared, which can result in orbs such as light sources (sky), metal structures, animals and people. When taking photographs of potential treasure targets we should always avoid including any of these in the camera frame.

Here is an example. I took these evening pictures of the cable car across the river Thames in London , England , built for the 2012 Olympics and called Emirates Airline. I was using the Canon camera with standard lens but no filter or flash. I didn’t realize at the time that I had the tops of some street lamps in the frame. Now Klaus Heinemann would probably claim the orbs in the pictures are spirits joining in the fun of the cable car ride but I am convinced they are caused mainly by those street lamps and possibly some of the other lights in the picture.

To the Manor Drawn (part 2)

THERE was to be a five month wait until the trees were stripped of apples by the pickers, which gave me plenty of time to reflect on the previous search of the manor house site. After a battle with silver paper, a battle with the trees and about one hundred hours detecting I had wrestled out of the ground about twenty worthwhile finds. Pleased as I was with four hammered silver coins, three Roman bronzes and some nice artefacts, one find for every five hours of searching didn't seem to be an awful lot to me. Was there a way of speeding things up, I wondered?

It was during this time that I read of a detectorist making a number of good finds by employing a map dowser to identify the find spots prior to searching. Now this was food for thought! If I could know for sure where the good finds were before I even switched on my machine, my finds rate ought to go sky high!

The first problem was where to find a map dowser, for the dowser I had read about had very inconveniently passed away. The solution soon came from an advertisement in The Searcher: "I will dowse your maps for you ...Ring J. Longton".

Nothing ventured, nothing gained; having no idea what to expect, I rang Mr. Longton. Jimmy turned out to be a very friendly, likeable soul who had retired from the wrestling ring and developed a passion for dowsing. His major claim to fame in metal detecting circles was the locating of a hoard of Viking silver brooches which earned him a share of a £43,000 Treasure Trove award. What might he do for me, I wondered?

"What sort of area do you want dowsed?" Jimmy asked. Rather naively I replied: "Could you do the entire farm? - It's 300 acres." "I could dowse a map of the entire country but you would be lucky if you recovered anything, because I would only be able to pinpoint large objects to within a few square miles. If you want to find coins and the like, I'll need an A4 size map of a small area — a few acres at most." I made a photocopy of the plan of manor site and its immediate surrounds — about 30 acres in all and sent it off with the £10 fee requested.

A few days later the phone rang about 10 p.m. Trouble at work, I thought. Happily, it wasn't. It was Jimmy who very excitedly told me that he had just been dowsing my map and had been getting gold and silver signals all over the place. "That's some site you've got there!" he said. I bet he says that to everyone, I thought.

When the map arrived, I eagerly scanned it to see what jimmy had made of it. The first thing that struck me was that nearly all Jimmy's markers (over 80%) lay within the boundaries of the wood that had surrounded the manor house (a random distribution would have been 50%). The next thing I noticed was a row of ferrous markers which I knew immediately corresponded with a series of large iron stakes on the site. This was quite impressive especially as Jimmy lived 300 miles away and I had been very careful to reveal as little as possible about the site!

I noticed also that quite a few non-ferrous crosses were on the part of the site that I thought I had searched thoroughly. This reminded me of a conversation we had, where Jimmy had said that owing to various "technical" difficulties such as dowsing going deeper than metal detectors, I could have problems in finding the targets that he had marked. You really should learn to dowse, he told me. I had little faith in my ability to dowse traditionally even though Jimmy had sent me instructions on how to make and use dowsing rods. Years ago I had taken an interest, bought a pair of L-rods, found they didn't work and discarded them!

Coincidentally there was, at this time, a flurry of advertising and dialogue concerning a machine from the States that could find gold and silver, find it fast and find it from a mile away. They called it a long range locator. Now this did sound much better than a pair of modified coat hangers! The major snag, apart from it being by no means clear as to whether these machines actually worked or not, was its hefty price tag. I sent for the literature and convinced myself that, as litigation was America ’s national sport, the manufacturer would have been sued out of existence if their claims weren’t at least substantially true. What’s more, all my detection equipment to date had paid for itself so my hobby owed me nothing. I bought an Electroscope Model 20.

If you haven’t seen an Electroscope, it consists of a more or less rectangular box (similar to a detector control box) with three adjustable antennae protruding from one end. Underneath, the box is joined to a pistol grip handle via a gimbal which allows the box to pivot in the horizontal plane. The general idea is that you keep the 'Scope balanced, wave it from side to side to determine if there is anything worth finding out in front of you and when the machine indicates that there is something, the antennae lock on to the target and you follow in for the kill with your metal detector. Simple!

Reality was somewhat different. The machine was easy enough to handle but most perplexing in what it seemed to be locating. The first field test yielded a broken bicycle spanner. The second had two of us digging a hole three feet deep only to uncover the farmer's water supply flowing through an iron pipe! Further tests produced bits and pieces of mainly non-ferrous scrap but none of this gold and silver the 'Scope was supposed to find. Yet metal objects were turning up which at least showed the machine was doing more than just keeping me amused until the autumn.

I arrived back at the manor site, just as the last box of apples was leaving, clutching the dowsed map, a 30 metre surveyor's tape and my detector of course. The corners of the field were the obvious places to measure from and there were only three of them as the field was triangular. I ran out the tape to the centre of the first cross and started searching with my metal detector. There was no hint of a signal. I carried on searching, carefully working out from the cross until eventually about 20 metres away I received a good signal and dug up a dinner fork, 20th century silver plated. I don't know if that was the object that had caused Jimmy's pendulum to gyrate but it did contain a very small amount of silver and I didn't find anything else in the vicinity.

I moved inwards to the next cross. It quickly became apparent that the further into the orchard I went the more the trees got in the way and the more difficult it was was to translate the crosses on paper into a search area on the ground. I didn't find anything anywhere around this second cross. I searched around the nearest crosses to the other two corners of the field and drew a blank there too; perhaps not surprisingly as I had thoroughly searched that end of the site last season. Back to the drawing board!

The following weekend I took the Electroscope with me. I didn't find much other than four pence in old money but I did discover that the Electroscope could be used just like a dowsing rod — I could simply walk around with it and it would indicate the location of metal objects to the left or the right of me within a few square metres. All I then had to do was to search the defined area with my metal detector. Using the 'Scope like this it wasn't long before I was holding my first decent find of the season — a well-preserved large rumbler bell with a blacksmith's hammer in shield motif.

Having now developed a working method, I started searching at the opposite end of the orchard to where I had worked the previous season, systematically working along each row. Not far in, from a depth of eight inches a Roman dupondius surfaced. A lump of bronze I uncovered became recognisable as part of a medieval pot-leg when I later dug out a complete one from a depth of 12 inches. From out of another seemingly bottomless hole came one of the nicest small crotal bells I have seen. This one is pewter with a bleeding heart motif, in perfect condition and good working order.

Just before I reached the point where I had finished searching last season I found an 18th century silver cufflink stud engraved with an abstract flower design. In the very next row I unearthed a similar silver cufflink stud engraved with the letter "T".

I was now going over old ground, as they say, searching the area that I had "thoroughly" done previously. I was amazed at what I had missed, although it was mainly junk. Two good finds did turn up, however. The first was a penny of Edward IV, very unfortunately clipped as it was a scarce Bristol mint issue. This was the smallest hammered coin I had ever found for two weeks until a cut farthing of Henry III put paid to that particular record. With that, I had completed the search of the main site in half the time that it had taken me to search a third of it conventionally.

According to the dowser there were still four treasures waiting to be found outside the main site, one at the west end and three at the east. I tried the west first and almost immediately found an As of Vespasian in quite presentable condition. At 69-79 AD this was the oldest datable metal object I had ever found and that record stood for a very long time. Further searches in the West produced nothing of note so I turned to the east.

At the eastern end of the main site lay another former wood of four acres. I decided to systematically search the lot rather than just go for the three dowsed targets which were close together in almost a straight line. The first find of note was a small rumbler bell, damaged and minus its ball. The second was an old style petrol can top proudly displaying the legend: PRATTS. The third find was a penny of Edward I, in good order and on the same day this was followed by two signals that produced most of a Henry III long cross penny. The following weekend brought the four acre search to an end with one final find — a half groat of Henry VIII. When I plotted the find-spots onto the map, the position of the three hammered coins coincided almost exactly with Jimmy's crosses!

What I didn't know, of course, was how thorough my searching was or how reliable was Jimmy's dowsing. I therefore used the couple of months I had left of this season and part of the next, to conventionally detect some of the area again and to see if I could find anything to the north or south of the main site. In terms of finds it was a complete waste of time but it did convince me that I had recovered everything worthwhile from the site — a total of forty good finds (including nine hammered silver coins) covering 1900 years!
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​From The Searcher March 1997